Bulgaria: Survey of Jewish Sites Published

Bulgaria: Survey of Jewish Sites Published

The United States Commission for the Preservation of America's Heritage Abroad has published a survey of Jewish Historic Monuments and Sites in Bulgaria, including information on the location, history and condition of synagogues and cemeteries.  Some of this material has been posted on the website Jewish Heritage Europe and has circulated in other formats, but its has never been assembled in easy access and illustrated report form.  The Commission report is posted in two parts.
Jewish Historic Monuments and Sites in Bulgaria, Part 1
Jewish Historic Monuments and Sites in Bulgaria, Part 2

 Plovdiv, Bulgaria. Restored Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber (2004)

Plovdiv, Bulgaria. Restored Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber (2004)

Plovdiv, Bulgaria. Restored Synagogue. U.S. Commission members Levy and Bandler at re-dedication. Photo: Samuel Gruber (2004)

The survey includes information from several sources, including my own visits, to synagogues and former synagogues in  Burgas (Bourgas), Dupnitsa (Dupnica), Gotze Delchev (formerly Nevrokop), Haskovo, Pazardjik, Plovdiv, Ruse (Ruosse), Samokov, Sofia, Varna, Vidin, Yambol (Iambol).  The synagogues of Sofia and Plovdiv have been restored in recent years and continue as religious and cultural centers.  Many former synagogue,s however, such as those in Vidin, Varna and Samakov survive as only as ruins.

Varna, Bulgaria. Sephardi Synagogue in ruins.  Photo: Samuel D. Gruber (2004). 

Vidin, Bulgaria. Sephardi Synagogue in ruins.  Photo: Samuel D. Gruber (2002).

The most substantial part of the report includes mostly unknown and unpublished results and photographs from site visits by teams organized by the Jewish Community of Bulgaria to cemeteries in Burgas (Bourgas), Chirpan (Shirpan), Dupnitsa (Dupnica), Gotze Delchev (formerly Nevrokop) , Haskovo, Karnobat, Kazanlak, Kyustendil, Lom, Pazardjik, Pleven, Plovdiv, Ruse (Rousse), Samokov, Shumen (Kolarovgrad, 1950 – 1966), Silistra, Sliven, Sofia, Varna, Vidin, and Yambol (Iambol).

While some of these cemeteries are well maintained, most have suffered significant damage from vandalism and neglect. For further information about any of these sites researchers should contact the Organization of Jews in Bulgaria - Shalom (info@shalom.bg).

Pleven, Bulgaria. The Jewish Cemetery is one of the largest and most in need of repair. Photo: Courtesy of US Commission for the Preservation of America's Heritage Abroad

Vidin, Bulgaria. The large Jewish Cemetery has been systematically vandalized, with most graves opened and plundered (purportedly by people looking for gold).  Jewish Cemetery. Photo: Courtesy of Us Commission for the Preservation of America's Heritage Abroad

Despite the relatively small size of the survey and the report, it was a long time in the making.  It began in 2002 when the Commission signed a cultural heritage agreement with the government of Bulgaria. I was then Research Director of the Commission and we began to organize a series of countrywide surveys to identify cultural and historic sites of religious and ethnic minorities whose heritage insufficiently recognized by culture authorities, or entirely ignored.   Over several years teams identified and visited Muslim, Christian, Roma and Jewish sites throughout Bulgaria.  In 2010 the Commission released a report on Muslim Sites, based on the extensive research of Stephen Lewis.  A report on  Protestant Christian sites in Bulgaria is forthcoming. 

Many people worked on the survey of Jewish sites.  In 2003, historical research was prepared as a section of an overview of various ethnic and religious minority historic and artistic sites in Bulgaria
by Professors Mark Stefanovich and Evelina Kelbetcheva of the American University in Bulgaria.  A second part of the survey took place in 2005 and 2006 and included site visits, descriptions, and extensive photography of Jewish cemeteries. The Organization of the Jews in Bulgaria, “Shalom,” carried out this stage of the work. Becca Lazarova arranged for the survey on behalf of “Shalom.”  On several visits to Bulgaria in 2003 and 2004 I  made site visits to the synagogues and Jewish cemeteries in Sofia, Plovdiv, Varna, and Vidin.  Becca Lazarova in Sofia and  Boris Yakov in Varna were gracious hosts.

While some time has passed since the initial draft of this report and its first circulation in 2007, the situation reported has not, to my knowledge, changed in any significant way.  Several important former synagogue remains ruined and without purpose, and cemeteries throughout the country are ruined intentionally by treasure hunters, and naturally by neglect.  Despite their best intentions, the small Jewish community in Bulgaria has limited people and money to address these problems.

Europe: Anniversaries of Budapest and Sofia Synagogues Celebrated

Budapest, Hungary. The Dohany Street Synagogue restored. Photo: Samuel D. Gruber, 2005.

Budapest, Hungary. Before and after pictures of the Dohany facade.
Photos: Samuel D. Gruber 1989 and 2005.

Europe: Anniversaries of Budapest and Sofia Synagogues Celebrated

Ruth Ellen Gruber has written for the JTA about the Dohany Street Synagogue in Budapest and the Great Synagogue in Sofia on the occasion of gala celebrations of their respective anniversaries. The Dohany Street Synagogue celebrates its 150th birthday, and the Great synagogue in Sofia is 100 years old. Rudolph Klein, who recently published a new book about the Dohany has supplied photos of the ceremony. Click here for Ruth's blog and Klein's and pictures.

Here are some additional pictures from from my archive taken in July 1991 when the restoration was just getting underway.



At that time it wasn't clear how much work had to be done and who would pay for it. Eventually the Hungarian government picked up most of the tab - probably close to $10 million dollars. When others claim credit, don't believe it. Give credit where credit is due! At the time I think this was the largest government commitment to a Jewish heritage restoration project ever...even more than the Dutch donation to the restoration of the Esnoga (to which many foundations and individuals also contributed). The Sofia synagogue had a harder time getting money. But eventually it too, has been successful. Both capital cities now boast splendid religious, cultural and ceremonial centers.

Sofia, Bulgaria. Great Synagogue. Photo: Samuel D. Gruber, 2006.

In Budapest, attention now turns to the Rumbach Street Synagogue. Restoration of the important Otto Wagner designed Moorish-style synagogue was interrupted in the early 1990s. Now the Hungarian Jewish Community has prepared an ambitious plan for the building, including the creation of new and expanded Jewish Museum and educational center. I'll write more on this later this fall.

Bulgaria: Celebration of Sofia’s Central Synagogue Centennial Planned

Sofia, Bulgaria. Great Synagogue in final phase of restoration.
Photos: Samuel D. Gruber 2003

Bulgaria: Celebration of Sofia’s Central Synagogue Centennial Planned
by Samuel D. Gruber

ISJM) The Jewish Community of Bulgaria has announced the planned celebration of the 100th anniversary of the opening of the Central Sofia Synagogue, to take place on September 9, 2009. The Synagogue opened on September 9, 1909 in the presence of regional leaders, ministers and supreme representatives of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church.

The large domed synagogue, located at Ekzarkh Josef St. 16, is a prominent architectural and urban landmark in downtown Sofia. It is the is the largest Sephardi Synagogue in the Balkans, and the third largest synagogue in Europe after those in Budapest (Dohany Street) and Amsterdam (Esnoga). Designed by Austrian architect Friedrich Gruenanger (1856-1929), the large domed structure was erected from 1905 to 1910. After falling into disrepair, the building was restored over a period of many years, and is now a great source of pride for Bulgarian Jews.

Prayer services have been held at the synagogue regularly since its opening, except for the years 1943-44 when most of the Jews of Sophia were removed to the countryside. The synagogue was not, however, severely damaged by the Nazis or local Fascists during the war. Instead, most wartime damage was the result of Allied bombing in 1944, when the gallery and several columns in the sanctuary were partially destroyed. After the War, most Bulgarian Jews emigrated to Israel. The remaining community could not afford to fully restore the synagogue, though small repairs were made intermittently between 1945 and 1989. Only in 1989 did the gradually reviving, but still small, Jewish community begin a full-scale restoration, which progressed in fits and starts as support from international partners was available The synagogue was officially rededicated in 1996, but restoration work continued for another decade.

For more information please send an email to: info@shalom.bg

The building combines various historical styles, particularly Byzantine and Moorish, in an expressive eclecticism characteristic of the early 20th century. Compare the building to the near contemporary large central-plan, domed syangogues of SuboticaSerbia) and Szeged (Hungary). Sofia, however, the choice of style may also reflect local history. In In the past, Bulgaria was part of the Byzantine Empire and then the Ottoman Empire. Many of Bulgaria’s Jews are descendants of Sephardi refugees from Spain. Thus, the Great Synagogue is a rare example where Spanish (Moorish) architectural motifs are actually employed in a synagogue that serves a congregation with roots in Spain. Architectural historian Carol Herselle Krinsky has pointed out that the design of the synagogue may also have been due in part to the Bulgarian nationalist movement in architecture that developed around 1900, and was dependent in large part on Byzantine sources (see Krinsky, Synagogues of Europe, pp 183-186 for a more detailed history in English).

The interior is decorated with multicolored mosaics, Carrara marble columns, ornamental carvings and other types of wall ornamentation. A brass chandelier weighing over 2200 kilos, the large candelabra and other decorations were imported from Vienna. The ceiling is painted to portray the heavens – a sea of stars on a blue background. Click here for an extensive gallery of photos.