Sunday, July 24, 2022

Siena's Synagogue: In the Beautiful Neo-Classical Interior, Where Were the Women?

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
 
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
  
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. View from the women's gallery. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
 
Italy: In Siena's Beautiful Neo-Classical Synagogue, Where Were the Women? 

by Samuel D. Gruber
 
A few summers ago I had the pleasure to visit and tour the beautiful synagogue of the Tuscan city of Siena, Italy, about which I have never posted. Anna di Castro, a local Jewish community member, activist, and organizer gave a bottom to top tour of the building to my sister Ruth Ellen Gruber and myself. The excellently restored appearance of the synagogue today is quite different than when I was first there in 1990. 
 
The synagogue is among the most beautiful from Italy's Ghetto era. Jews are recorded in Siena in the 13th century, and they were restricted to a ghetto in 1571. An older synagogue was replaced in 1786 with this sanctuary. Though it is only about 100 feet or so off the Campo, the main space of the medieval town and one of the most visited piazze in all of Italy, this synagogue is unobtrusive. Most visitors miss it entirely. When I visited Siena many times in the 1970s and 1980s I did not even know it was there. 
 
As in most town of Central and Northern Italy, some Jews were present in Siena from the period of the city's greatest expansion and artistic and architectural achievement before the Black Death in the 14th century,. Ghettos were established throughout Italy beginning in the 16th century, and the Jews of Siena were confined in 1571.  Paradoxically, today wealth of Italian synagogue architecture and art lies in the  many synagogues built in this period.
 
In 1990, the Siena synagogue - and the city's Jewish history - was hardly marked or spoken of. I got a tour then of the three-story building from Giuseppe Lattes, the former head of the Siena’s Jewish Community. The synagogue was in sore need of repair. I had just begun to work for the World Monuments Fund in New York and Mr. Lattes made a good case for funds needed to restore the venerable building. Alas, the timing of the visit coincided with the opening of Eastern Europe, and WMF's then-new Jewish Heritage Program priorities shifted from Italy, where the organization had restored the Scola Canton Synagogue Venice, to Poland and elsewhere.
 
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Interior before restoration.Photo: Samuel Gruber 1990.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
 
In 1990, the synagogue interior was still a beautiful space, but it looked tired and neglected. The ceiling especially needed urgent attention; infiltrating water was damaging the vaults. WMF couldn't help back then, but we promoted the project at our Future of Jewish Monuments conference and exhibit the same year. Fortunately, despite the almost complete disappearance of an active Jewish community in Siena the building was fully restored in 2011, and now it shines. The Siena community is now joined to the much larger Florence community. The synagogue is occasionally used for services, and it is regularly accessible to visitors as an historical site and museum of Siena’s Jewish history.

You can look at slideshow about the restoration here: https://pt.slideshare.net/SaraVivarelli1/presentazione20restauro20siena202011

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Stairway leading to sanctuary level. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Water basis on stairway for ritual ablution. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Entering the synagogue, one passes some inscribed plaques to the left of the doorway. One commemorates fourteen Sienese Jews deported during the Second World War.

Translation: The camps of ruthless annihilation were true / Incredible tools of inhuman power /With six million Jews the deportees from Siena will disappear / Children of a doctrine of justice and love/ With charity and blessing their names are remembered

Beneath this is a plaque installed on the 200th anniversary of the mob murder by public burning of 13 Jews in 1789.

Translation: Victims of the anti-Jacobin reaction / And anti-Jewish hatred / Thirteen Jewish citizens / Were burned on the Campo on June 28, 1789 / By the fanatics of "Viva Maria" / Who had devastated the ancient ghetto.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue entrance. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2004.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Commoerative plaque for Holocaust victims. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2004.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Commemorative plaque for the victims of 1799. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2004.
 
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Commemorative plaque for World War I soldiers.  Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

On a wall in the ground hall another ornate plaque remembers two local Jews who died fighting for Italy in the First World War. Upstairs, in the hall leading to the prayer room there are two plaques dedicated to the restoration of the synagogue in 1902 and the visit by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Leopold 11 in 1829.

Following Italian custom, especially for urban synagogues, the sanctuary is on a second level – equivalent to the piano nobile of an Italian palace. This is for a variety of reasons including structure, lighting, security, and perhaps the Talmudic recommendation that the sanctuary should be a high point. It was designed by Florentine architect Giuseppe del Rosso in a grand Neo-classical style. The decoration and woodwork are the creations of carpenters Nicolo Jande and Pietro Rossi. 

The rectangular room has a barrel-vaulted ceiling. There are benches along the walls, broken up by Ionic pilasters, interwoven with garlands. The ceiling is decorated with stuccoes including the Ten Commandments. In the arches of the vault some windows are adorned with friezes and festoons. On the walls are fourteen verses from Psalms and other Biblical texts, in Baroque stucco frames. 

The Aron ha-Kodesh (ark) is set against the wall opposite the entrance. The ark is raised by six steps and separated from the rest of the room by a marble balustrade with small columns and a central wrought iron gate. In front of it are six candelabra and some lamps. The roundish walnut bimah (1756) is at the center of the room.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
   
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.
The sanctuary is on the second story of the building and the women were on the third. The two tiers of balconies on the building's third and fourth stories have views into the room through elaborate baroque grilles. The decorative wooden grilles kept the women in their own space, and they could only see and hear part of what was going on down below. A fourth story had additional space, also separated by grilles. The highest space was probably used as classrooms and for other community purposes. Stairs led to the upper levels.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Stairs to the women's section. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Women's gallery, now a space for meetings and exhibits. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. Women's gallery, now a space for meetings and exhibits. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

Siena, Italy. Synagogue. A smaller grilled window on the fourth floor, looking out to the sanctuary. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2018.

See the Jewish Siena web site for info about visiting the synagogue and Jewish museum, etc https://www.jewishsiena.it/

Thursday, July 21, 2022

Greece: In Drama, Remembering the Murder of Jews of Macedonia and Thrace

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Greece: In Drama, Remembering the Murder of Jews of Macedonia and Thrace

By Samuel D. Gruber

I’ve recently written about Holocaust memorial monuments in the Greek cities of Thessaloniki, Chania, Volos. and Larissa. Those are places where there is a living Jewish presence, with still functioning synagogues and some Jews. There is no such life left in the former Jewish centers of East Macedonia and Thrace. The once thriving communities of Serres, Drama, Komotini, Xanthi, Komotini, Alexandropouli and  Didymoticho were entirely destroyed and their thousands of members murdered in 1943, when the Bulgarian occupying military, in coordination with German and Bulgarian governments, deported all the Jews from the region to Treblinka in Poland. The series of memorial monuments built in these towns by the Central Board of Jewish Communities in Greece since the late 1990s are as little known as is the tragic history they mark.

Twenty-five years ago, in 1997, public remembrance of this Holocaust history began the town of Drama. A memorial plaque was installed on the wall of the tobacco warehouse where the Jews of Drama had been imprisoned in 1943 on the edge of Agia Varvara (Saint Barbara) Park. 

Drama, Greece. Remains of tobacco warehouse at where Jews were impronsoed before deportation. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022.
 
Drama, Greece. Remains of tobacco warehouse at where Jews were impronsoed before deportation. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022.

Drama, Greece. Memorial plaque affixed to former tobacco warehouse at where Jews were impronsoed before deportation. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022.

ΣΤΟ ΧΩΡΟ ΑΥΤΟ ΣΤΙΣ 3 ΜΑΡΤΙΟΥ 1943

On this site on the 3rd of March 1943

ΣΥΝΕΛΗΦΘΗΣΑΝ ΚΑΙ ΦΥΛΑΚΙΣΤΗΚΑΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΙΣ

Were arrested and imprisoned by the

ΓΕΡΜΑΝΟΒΟΥΛΓΑΡΙΚΕΣ ΑΡΧΕΣ ΚΑΤΟΧΗΣ

German-Bulgarian occupying authorities

1200 ΕΒΡΑΙΟΙ ΤΗΣ ΔΡΑΜΑΣ ΟΙ ΟΠΟΙΟΙ

1200 Jews of Drama who were

ΕΚΤΟΠΙΣΘΗΚΑΝ ΣΤΑ ΝΑΖΙΣΤΙΚΑ ΣΤΡΑΤΟΠΕΔΑ

Transferred to the Nazi camps

ΤΟΥ ΟΛΕΘΡΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥ ΘΑΝΑΤΟΥ

Of calamity and death

ΤΡΕΜΠΛΙΝΚΑ ΑΟΥΣΒΙΤΣ-ΜΠΙΡΚΕΝΑΟΥ

Treblinka Auschwitz-Birkenau

ΟΠΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΘΑΝΑΤΩΘΗΣΑΝ

Where they were killed

ΑΙΩΝΙΑ Η ΜΝΗΜΗ ΤΟΥΣ

May their memory be eternal

ΔΗΜΟΣ ΔΡΑΜΑΣ

Drama Municipality

ΚΕΝΤΡΙΚΟ ΙΣΡΑΗΛΙΤΙΚΟ ΣΥΜΒΟΥΛΙΟ ΕΛΛΑΔΟΣ

Central Board of Jewish Communities of Greece

ΔΡΑΜΑ 1 ΙΟΥΝΙΟΥ 1997

Drama 1 June 1997

 (translation courtesy of Elias Messinas)

Drama is a city awash with water (its ancient name Dyrama or Hydrama means "rich in water" and water gushes from natural springs at Agia Varvara Park, the center of local Holocaust commemoration. The park is a mix of land and water, with wooden walkways crossing wide water pools and streams. Nearby is the little church of Agia Varvara. 

Drama, Greece. Church of Saint Barbara on edge of Saint Barbara Park. This was the neighborhood where many Drama Jews lived before 1943. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Drama, Greece. Saint Barbara Park. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022.

In 1999, a more substantial monument for all the Jewish martyrs of the Holocaust – but especially for those deported by the Bulgarians from Macedonia and Thrace - was erected in the park. It was dedicated on September 5, 1999. The monument acquired dubious notoriety in December 2020 when it was vandalized. Many people pass the monument daily, and it serve as the backdrop to Holocaust remembrance ceremonies.

The abstract black stone monument sits on a large base that sprawls outward in the shape of Jewish star. The monument seems like a stele about to take wing. A large, curved stone on top spreads to each side, humanizing the geometry of the form. On this stone is inscribed in Greek, Hebrew, and English the admonition to "Remember and Do Not Forget." To me, the monument looks like a figure with arms outstretched. Perhaps an angel? Even the Angel of Death? A Christian might see a Tau-cross. A similar  monument in nearby Kavala - from where many more Jews were deported - is not nearly so well sited, and does not contain the dramatic upper stone.

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

An inscription on one side of the monument shows the locations of the communities of the region from where Jews were deported. On one side are listed the towns and the number of victims.

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Map of towns from where Jews were deported. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. "Jewish Communities murdered by the German/Bulgarian occupiers in spring of 1943."Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022

Jews in Drama

(summarized from the community history on the website of the Central Board of Jewish Communities in Greece (KIS)

Jews had been in Macedonia since at least the Roman period, and were settled in the cities of Serres, Drama, and Kavala during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods, too.  Drama was mentioned by the Spanish Jewish traveler Benjamin of Tudela in the 12th century. He reported there were 140 Jewish families in the city. Jewish refugees from Hungary arrived in 1529, fleeing after the fall of Budapest. They settled in Drama and elsewhere in the region. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Jews settled in the region as part of the extensive development of countryside and city for cultivation and production centers for tobacco and silk. Both industries attracted Jewish investors and managers, especially Sephardi Jews from Thessaloniki. 

The Jewish centers of Drama, Serres, and Kavala were all linked by marriage and other family connections. When a fire swept Serres in 1913, many Jews from there moved to Drama. Jewish refugees continued to settle here in the early 20th century during the Balkan and the Greco-Turkish wars and subsequent population exchanges.  By 1925 there were about 1200 Jews in the city.

When Germans occupied Greece at the start of the World War II, they granted control of the area between Serres and Alexandropouli to their Bulgarian allies. After January 1942, German and Bulgarian forces began to plan the deportation of Jews in Bulgarian territories and a year later the Bulgarians announced the deportation of Jews from their occupation zones in Greece and Yugoslavia.

On the night of March 3-4, 1943, the Jews of Drama were forcibly gathered in a tobacco store house in the St. Barbara area, and from where they were transported by train to temporary concentration camps in South Bulgaria. On March 20-21, they were transported by train to the Bulgarian harbor of Lom on the Danube, and from there to Vienna by riverboat under horrific conditions. Finally, the exhausted and starved prisoners were taken to Treblinka in Poland, where they were immediately murdered.

According to official documents, 1096 families of Greek Jews with 681 children under 10 years old, and a total of 4273 people, were deported from the Bulgarian occupation zone in March 1943. There were no survivors. The Bulgarian deportation of the Jews was an event of total annihilation. By 1948 only 39 survivors of the Holocaust had returned to Drama. The community could not be reconstituted and was dissolved.

Drama, Greece. Holocaust Monument. Photo: Samuel Gruber 2022