Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (2). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (3). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Monument to Jewish community in town center. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Jewish cemetery, new gate. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Lithuania: A Visit to the Newly Dedicated Jewish Memorial Sites in Šeduva
by Samuel D. Gruber
(ISJM) Three weeks after the formal dedication (October 9, 2015) of four memorial sites in and around Šeduva, Lithuania, I was able to visit in the company of Sergey Kanovich, founder of the Šeduva Jewish Memorial Fund and a few colleagues who had attended the Jewish Cemeteries in Europe conference held in Vilnius earlier in the week.
At first I was reluctant to go - there were so many places and people I wanted to see in Vilnius, and time was short. But Sergey was persuasive, and I thus spent a day that was the most emotionally moving of any during my week in Lithuania, and which was also professionally intriguing, stimulating and uplifting - leaving me feeling positive and hopeful about the increased recognition about Jewish and Holocaust history in Lithuania and about the potential for protecting and presenting heritage and memorial sites with dignity, beauty and community outreach. The expansive concept, and the high degree of the planning work, and the technical and aesthetic quality of the monuments impressed me very much.
At first I was reluctant to go - there were so many places and people I wanted to see in Vilnius, and time was short. But Sergey was persuasive, and I thus spent a day that was the most emotionally moving of any during my week in Lithuania, and which was also professionally intriguing, stimulating and uplifting - leaving me feeling positive and hopeful about the increased recognition about Jewish and Holocaust history in Lithuania and about the potential for protecting and presenting heritage and memorial sites with dignity, beauty and community outreach. The expansive concept, and the high degree of the planning work, and the technical and aesthetic quality of the monuments impressed me very much.
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). The tri-lingual inscription says "At this site, on 25 August 1941, Nazis and their local collaborators murdered about 400 Jews of Seduva." Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015.
What we saw was the result of more than two years of work and approximately 3 million euro in expenditures. Besides the hard costs of restoring and presenting four large and distinctive sites and a centrally place monument in the town, the project organizers have worked hard to engage the local community, participate in the local economy and to support civic life in this town where Jews comprised the majority of residents until the summer of 1941. The latter has including the donation of a fully equipped ambulance to the community, something sorely needed and now much used. The entire project from conception to implantation is exemplary. I cannot provide all the details here, but will be referring back to specific aspects of the historical context, the technical work and commemorative, interpretive and educational aspects in future posts.
The October 9th ceremony, which included the participation of Lithuanian Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevičius marked progress so far. In the future there are plans to build a small museum next to the cemetery which will tell the story of the region's Jewish community and its fate. Amir Maimon, Israel’s first ambassador to Lithuania; Darius Degutis, Lithuania’s former ambassador to Israel and Mantvydas Bekešius, deputy Lithuanian foreign minister, attended the ceremony as well. I was surprised that the United States embassy did not send a representative. At the dedication, Kanovich said that “Murderers could not kill our memory. We are back because our memory is stronger than their bullets. And memory will always prevail.”
The restored cemetery, which is not far from a main road, is the most visible part of the project, but hardly the most important. for at least ten years visitors and genealogists had been visiting the site and transcribing visible gravestones, but though accessible the cemetery was not maintained. The condition of the large site was better than at many cemeteries in Lithuania, and at least its broken walls clearly defined its sacred space - which unlike in nearby Radviliškis, had not been encroached upon. Still, the wall was broken, parts of the site were overgrown, and the entire place was pervaded by an overwhelming sense of neglect. Since work began in earnest on the restoration a few years ago, more than 400 tombstones have been identified and more than 1,300 have been either restored or preserved. The decision was made to leave all standing stones as they were, to re-erect fallen stones to perpendicular, and to assemble fragments of matzevot into a monument (read more here).
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (2). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (2). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
The October 9th ceremony, which included the participation of Lithuanian Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevičius marked progress so far. In the future there are plans to build a small museum next to the cemetery which will tell the story of the region's Jewish community and its fate. Amir Maimon, Israel’s first ambassador to Lithuania; Darius Degutis, Lithuania’s former ambassador to Israel and Mantvydas Bekešius, deputy Lithuanian foreign minister, attended the ceremony as well. I was surprised that the United States embassy did not send a representative. At the dedication, Kanovich said that “Murderers could not kill our memory. We are back because our memory is stronger than their bullets. And memory will always prevail.”
Šeduva, Lithuania. Jewish cemetery, newly rebuilt wall. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Jewish cemetery. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
The restored cemetery, which is not far from a main road, is the most visible part of the project, but hardly the most important. for at least ten years visitors and genealogists had been visiting the site and transcribing visible gravestones, but though accessible the cemetery was not maintained. The condition of the large site was better than at many cemeteries in Lithuania, and at least its broken walls clearly defined its sacred space - which unlike in nearby Radviliškis, had not been encroached upon. Still, the wall was broken, parts of the site were overgrown, and the entire place was pervaded by an overwhelming sense of neglect. Since work began in earnest on the restoration a few years ago, more than 400 tombstones have been identified and more than 1,300 have been either restored or preserved. The decision was made to leave all standing stones as they were, to re-erect fallen stones to perpendicular, and to assemble fragments of matzevot into a monument (read more here).
In the summer of 1941, local Jews were marched out of the town to the Liaudiškiai and Pakuteniai forests where they were killed by Nazis and their Lithuanian accomplices. Newly-commissioned monuments
by Lithuanian sculptor Romas Kvintas and surrounding spaces for reflection now mark the sites. These are not easy to find and only some markers are now in place, but eventually road markers will indicate turnoffs, and other signs will guide visitors.
Kvintas's monuments, which replace earlier mostly Soviet era markers, are tall and free standing and command the open plazas onto which they are placed. One can drive and park close to the two Liaudiškiai Forest sites. The third site requires a short hike through the woods. The monuments are stark and geometric and dark in color, but their appearance is softened with symbols, angled elements and penetration areas, so that light and sky and greenery are visible from every view.
Rural and forest roads have been repaired and in some cases entirely rebuilt to allow access, though most likely this will be difficult or impossible in winter months. The visitation season to mass grave memorials will mostly be from mid-spring through September as this includes the commemoration dates of Yom ha-Shoah, the August anniversary of the massacres themselves, and Lithuania's national Holocaust Remembrance Day on September 23rd. Most foreign visitors come in the summer when the days are long and the weather is best.
These markers, funded with support from the Holocaust Education Trust (UK) have been placed all over Lithuania to announce nearby mass grave and memorial sites. Photo: Samuel D. Gruber Oct 2015
Kvintas's monuments, which replace earlier mostly Soviet era markers, are tall and free standing and command the open plazas onto which they are placed. One can drive and park close to the two Liaudiškiai Forest sites. The third site requires a short hike through the woods. The monuments are stark and geometric and dark in color, but their appearance is softened with symbols, angled elements and penetration areas, so that light and sky and greenery are visible from every view.
Rural and forest roads have been repaired and in some cases entirely rebuilt to allow access, though most likely this will be difficult or impossible in winter months. The visitation season to mass grave memorials will mostly be from mid-spring through September as this includes the commemoration dates of Yom ha-Shoah, the August anniversary of the massacres themselves, and Lithuania's national Holocaust Remembrance Day on September 23rd. Most foreign visitors come in the summer when the days are long and the weather is best.
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (3). Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
In the center of Šeduva another monument has been created. A statue of young girl stands before a large plinth upon which is a tri-lingual inscription "For Šeduva Jews." The statue of the girl has been quickly embraced by the town. She gives a human face to the abstract number of local dead. In time, in the musuem, the names of as many of the victims as can be known will also be presented.
Organizers and local officials are not unaware of the broader effect of the restoration project. Indeed, consideration of the regional impact of the work was part of the planning process. They are confident that the cemetery, which is easily accessible from the main highway linking Panevėžys and Šiauliai, will become, especially after the creation of the museum, a stop for visitors interested in Lithuania’s cultural heritage and Jewish history.
Faina Kukliansky, chairwoman of the Jewish Community of Lithuania, said that “Very many Jews lived in Šeduva, but sadly they’re all gone now. This is
one of the most painful chapters in the history of humanity. There were
200 sites in Lithuania where large Jewish communities lived. Now we
have 200 sites where there are mass graves of Jews shot during World War
II. I hope for the younger generation to remember history, and the
history of the Litvaks is a big part of the historical heritage of
Lithuania."
According to Kanovich, “Our first and primary aim is to memorialize the lives and deaths of Šeduva Jews,” “But what happened here was no different from what happened throughout Lithuania—once home to more than 200,000 Litvaks, as the Jews of the historic Grand Duchy of Lithuania were called...It is time Lithuania rediscovered the rich past and culture of its Litvaks. It is time to comprehend Jewish heritage as more than a problem. It is an asset and an inseparable part of the history of Lithuania."
The Prime Minister seems to agree.At the dedication he remarked that the Šeduva monument "would inspire other towns and villages in the country to memorialize different ethnicities that used to and still do live in Lithuania."
Organizers and local officials are not unaware of the broader effect of the restoration project. Indeed, consideration of the regional impact of the work was part of the planning process. They are confident that the cemetery, which is easily accessible from the main highway linking Panevėžys and Šiauliai, will become, especially after the creation of the museum, a stop for visitors interested in Lithuania’s cultural heritage and Jewish history.
Šeduva, Lithuania. Monument to Jewish community in town center. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
According to Kanovich, “Our first and primary aim is to memorialize the lives and deaths of Šeduva Jews,” “But what happened here was no different from what happened throughout Lithuania—once home to more than 200,000 Litvaks, as the Jews of the historic Grand Duchy of Lithuania were called...It is time Lithuania rediscovered the rich past and culture of its Litvaks. It is time to comprehend Jewish heritage as more than a problem. It is an asset and an inseparable part of the history of Lithuania."
The Prime Minister seems to agree.At the dedication he remarked that the Šeduva monument "would inspire other towns and villages in the country to memorialize different ethnicities that used to and still do live in Lithuania."
The restored cemetery is open daily to visitors except
Saturdays and Jewish holidays.
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). Even the benches are beautifully designed. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Mass grave memorial site (1). Even the benches are beautifully designed. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Šeduva, Lithuania. Jewish cemetery. Photo: Samuel D Gruber Oct 2015
Hello Samuel Gruber. I always enjoy reading your posts and viewing your photographs.
ReplyDeleteI visited Lithuania last year. My friends in the coastal town of Palanga took me to a small Jewish cemetery there. http://www.travelwithjan.com/node/2311
I also visited the synagogue in Kaunas and the memorial site near Paneriai. http://www.travelwithjan.com/node/2296
I look forward to seeing many more of your posts.
Jan Polatschek
Samuel,
ReplyDeleteThank you for this beautiful post with exquisite pictures. I attended and participated in the Lost Shtetl Day in Seduva (yes, Sergey is persuasive!) For me, also, it was one of the most meaningful days of my life. I still think about it often, and wonder how I ever thought about not going! But I really enjoyed reading your post, which looked at it from a different perspective. I'm glad you took the time to see all the work that has been done and the beautiful monuments and statue. My mother lived in Seduva from 1934-1937, so Seduva will always have a special place in my heart.
Thank you again for sharing your experience with others.
Marlene